A look at costume design from the movies Stormy Weather (1943), Lady Sings the Blues (1972), Dreamgirls (2006), Cadillac Records (2008), Sparkle (2012), and The United States vs. Billie Holiday (2021).
STORMY WEATHER (1943)
COSTUME DESIGNER: Helen Rose
TIME PERIOD: 1920's-1940's
CAST: Lena Horne, Bill Robinson, Cab Calloway, Katherine Dunham
This film was one of only two films released with an African American cast in 1943 and they both starred Lena Horne. This was groundbreaking at the time because it was a primary showcase of some of the leading African American performers of the day, during an era when African American actors and singers rarely appeared in lead roles in mainstream Hollywood productions.
Various scenes from Stormy Weather 20th Century Fox
The costumes in the movie Stormy Weather are quite unique and interesting. The movie is set in the early 1940s, and the costumes reflect the style of the era. The women in the film are seen wearing dresses, skirts, and blouses with pleats, ruffles, and other embellishments. The men in the movie wear three-piece suits, tweed jackets, and other period-appropriate clothing. The costumes are colourful and vibrant, and they help bring the characters to life and make the movie come alive. My favourites were the performance costumes which brought the extra glamour and drama to the screen which even shines through on black and white film.
Lena Horne as Selina Rogers 20th Century Fox
Although the film was released originally in black and white it had been coloured and re-released. Even without colour the talent of the stars shines through, especially when it comes to their hair, makeup and costumes. Below is Lena Horne as Selina Rogers in a glistening yet demure dark ensemble performing the song Stormy Weather (1933) where the movie got it's title from.
LADY SINGS THE BLUES (1972)
COSTUME DESIGNER: Ray Aghayan, Bob Mackie, Norma Kock
TIME PERIOD: 1920's-1950's
CAST: Diana Ross, Billy Dee Williams, Richard Pryor
Loosely based on the autobiography released in 1956, this film follows the life and experiences of Billie Holiday. The wardrobe department did a fantastic job of authentically recreating the 1940s and 1950s style for Diana Ross' character, Billie Holiday. The dress and hat combination for her performance at the Apollo Theatre was especially memorable. The vibrant colours, detailed embroidery, and luxurious fabrics used for her stage costumes added a touch of glamour and sophistication to the movie. Overall, the costume design was a great representation of the time period and highlighted the beauty of Billie Holiday's music.
Various scenes from Lady Sings the Blues Paramount Pictures
While the film and story itself may have been ahead of it's time, facing mixed reviews while it's modern counterpart The United States vs. Billie Holiday received critical acclaim, the performance of Diana Ross and the costume design team was never questioned. Both were nominated for Academy Awards for the film, although they did not win. Nonetheless the essence and hardships of Miss Holiday's life reflected to the audience clearly. The high highs of her rebellious nature and ground shaking performances made the audience feel just as much as her low lows of drug use and troubled relationships.
Diana Ross in a promotional shot for the film Paramount Pictures
Below is one of my favourite scenes from the movie, early on when Billie Holidays career is just starting. Even though it's not her most glamorous look of the film the yellow ruffle dress and matching hat was a great reflection of the hope, determination and innocence of the main character at this time of her life.
DREAMGIRLS (2006)
COSTUME DESIGNER: Sharen Davis
TIME PERIOD: 1960's-1980's
CAST: Jamie Foxx, Beyonce Knowles, Jennifer Hudson, Eddie Murphy
The costumes in the movie Dreamgirls are absolutely stunning! They range from sparkly and glamorous gowns to bright and bold designs that perfectly capture the energy and spirit of the musical. The costumes were designed by Sharen Davis and perfectly capture the different eras in which the movie takes place. From the 1960s to the 1980s, the costumes help to create a visual timeline and give the characters a unique look for each period. The costumes also help to highlight each character's individual personality, giving them a unique style that reflects their individual journeys.
Various scenes from Dreamgirls Dreamworks Pictures/Paramount Pictures
Dressed in fairly simple and modest dresses of the era pictured are Jennifer Hudson and Beyonce as Effie and Deena. Dreamworks Pictures/Paramount Pictures
The main characters who comprise The Dreamettes all start off with modest and period fitting outfits. Still adorned in beautiful brocades and crystal accents in the beginning, as their careers mature their style does with them. For example, Beyonce's character Deena Jones experiences the most success in her music and acting career therefore the audience sees her go through a variety of costumes ranging from elegant mermaid gowns, glamorous sixties ensembles and shining disco era looks. Jeniffer Hudson's character Effie on the other hand transitions into the wardrobe of an average woman of the time when she is no longer in the group and her career is put on hold. We can see the influence of the disco era and artists such as Diana Ross and Cher in the clip below.
CADILLAC RECORDS (2008)
COSTUME DESIGNER: Johnetta Boone
TIME PERIOD: 1940's-1960's
CAST: Beyonce Knowles, Adrien Brody, Jeffrey Wright, Columbus Short, Gabrielle Union
The costumes in the movie Cadillac Records are truly unique and attention-grabbing. The movie follows the story of the rise and fall of Chess Records, and the outfits reflect the fashion of the time. The costumes feature vibrant colours, bold patterns, and plenty of bling. The men can be seen wearing sharp suits, and the women often sport bright dresses and accessories. In addition to the amazing costumes, the hairstyles of the actors are also noteworthy and help to complete the look of the time period.
Various scenes from Cadillac Records Sony Pictures
One of the main characters played by Beyonce is Etta James. Other than the male wardrobe in the film special attention is payed to her wardrobe. Consistently sporting figure hugging brocade ensembles, Etta James comes across put together and always ready to perform regardless of her emotional or mental state. Rarely does the audience see her in wardrobe, hair and makeup out of place making those emotional scenes hit that much harder. Below Beyonce can be seen in a vibrant green brocade dress performing one of my favourite Etta James song All I Could Was Cry (1960).
SPARKLE (2012)
COSTUME DESIGNER: Ruth Carter
TIME PERIOD: 1960's
CAST: Jordin Sparks, Whitney Houston, Derek Luke, Mike Epps, Carmen Ejogo, Tika Sumpter
Oscar winning Ruth E. Carter designed the costumes for the 2012 remake of Sparkle. The original was released in 1976 centring on three singing sisters in the late 50's. The remake is set in the late 60's Motown era and is inspired by The Supremes. Carter chose an array of colourful and eye-catching costumes that really highlighted the glitz and glamour of the 1960s soul music era. Costumes included long maxi dresses, vibrant jumpsuits, and sparkling gowns to emphasize the female leads' fashion-forward style. Some of the standout pieces featured in the movie are the beaded red gown worn by Sparkle, the bright yellow playsuit worn by Sister, and the dramatic ensembles worn by Emma. The costumes perfectly capture the spirit and energy of the time and make for a truly captivating movie experience.
Various scenes from Sparkle Stage 6 Films/Tristar Pictures
The movie follows the lives and careers of three singing sisters trying to make it in Motown as artists. Sparkle, Dee and Sister are raised by their mother Emma who is played by Whitney Houston. This was her last role before she passed away and it's dedicated to her memory.
Jordin Sparks and Whitney Houston in Sparkle Stage 6 Films/Tristar Pictures
THE UNITED STATES VS. BILLIE HOLIDAY (2021)
COSTUME DESIGNER: Paolo Nieddu
TIME PERIOD: 1940's-1950's
CAST: Andra Day, Trevante Rhodes, Garret Hedlund, Leslie Jordan
The movie The United States vs. Billie Holiday offers an intriguing glimpse into the life of the iconic jazz singer. Different to Lady Sings the Blues this biopic on the life of Billie Holiday focuses heavily on her song Strange Fruit (1939) and how the politics behind it affected her career and life. The costumes used in the film are stunning and really help to transport viewers back in time. The costume designs are based on Billie's real-life style and are full of vibrant colours and bold patterns. From the 1920s-inspired dresses to the colourful hats, the costumes help to tell Billie's story and provide insight into her unique fashion sense.
Various scenes from The United States vs. Billie Holiday Hulu
Alongside costume designer Paolo Nieddu, the director of the film Lee Daniels decided to collaborate with Prada for the wardrobe of Billie. Nine costumes were created by the Prada team capturing Holidays elegance and style. Nieddu paged through archive Prada looks, old magazines and of course photos of Billie herself to help compile these looks. Below are some of his original sketches as well as the finished movie looks.
Sketches courtesy of Prada, movie stills courtesy of Hulu