Josephine Baker serves as inspiration for this collection by Maria Grazia Chiuri.
Josephine Baker, 1925. Hulton Archive Getty Images
If Josephine Baker isn't a familiar name for you let me take you back to 1920's Paris where Miss Baker became an instant success as a cabaret dancer. Not only did she headline the Folies Bergère but she was also the first black woman in a major motion picture. An icon of the Roaring Twenties and a French Resistance agent, let's dive a bit deeper into the life of the latest muse for the House of Dior.
She was born Freda Josephine McDonald June 3, 1906 in St. Louis. She had a tough childhood starting work as a live-in domestic for white families at the age of eight. She also experienced abuse and witnessed racial based violence at this time. By the time she was twelve she was homeless, had dropped out of school and relied on waitressing and street-corner dancing to support herself. When she was fifteen she married her second husband William Howard Baker, but by this time she had already joined a vaudeville troupe who were booked into a New York City venue. For this reason the marriage didn’t last and they divorced in 1925, but with her career taking off she still used the name Baker professionally.
After performing in the chorus on Broadway Josephine travelled to Paris where she got her big break. She became an instant success for her erotic dance style and skin baring costumes. Although the most recent collection by Dior focuses on more military inspired and subdued looks of Baker, there is homage payed to Baker's glamorous stage looks.
Baker in her iconic banana skirt costume, c. 1925. Getty Images
She had only been in Paris for a year when she booked Folies Bergère. Before long she became the most famous African-American entertainer working in France. Written about by Hemingway and painted by Picasso, Miss Bakers charm and beauty were undeniable. Her release of several songs in the thirties, especially “J’ai deux amours” (1931) cemented her place in French popular culture.
Baker in a luxurious feather costume, 1926. Gaston Paris Getty Images
Baker in a crystal mesh luxurious look, 1928. Getty Images
Baker in a feathered costume, chunky jewelry and headpiece, 1930. Hulton Archive Getty Images.
Baker in a dress of tulle and feathers, 1930. Getty Images
Honing in on the straight silky silhouette of the twenties, Maria Grazia Chiuri pays tribute to the glamour of Baker's stage looks focusing on floral embellishments, metallic fabrics and subtle feather adornments. Isidore Montag/Gorunway.com
Once again exploring silhouettes of the 1920's and embellishments of the Art Deco era, Chiuri serves us modernized versions of styles Baker herself would have worn. Isidore Montag/Gorunway.com
Unable to attain the same success in America as she had in France, Josephine gave up her American citizenship and married French industrialist Jean Lion in 1937. When WW2 started Baker was recruited by the Deuxième Bureau as an honourable correspondent. Her fame allowed her to socialize with Japanese, Italian and German high officials without radiating suspicion. Her work as an entertainer allowed her to move all around Europe which is how she carried information about airfields, harbours and German troop concentrations. She even wrote important notes on her sheet music in invisible ink. Baker also arranged free shows for the French troops as they had no organized entertainment network. At the end of the war Josephine was honoured with medals and by then she had adopted eleven children from all parts of the world.
Reflecting on her time in the war, Dior presented these tailored blazer coats in muted tones which especially stood out to me. Traditional two piece skirt sets with bar suit elements were also presented as a reflection of off-duty military wear. Isidore Montag/Gorunway.com
Bakers career took off even further once the war ended, returning to Folies Bergère, an American national tour and club performances where she fought for the audience to be de-segregated. She won NAACP’s woman of the year in 1951 and was a loud proponent in the civil rights movement. Fighting for civil rights during this time resulted in backlash where she was accused of being a communist and Bakers work visa was cancelled forcing her to return to France.
Baker in 1951 on stage in Los Angeles. Hulton Archive Getty Images.
Baker in a pleated embellished gown. Getty Images.
Baker in a shimmering evening gown and feather headdress. Getty Images.
Form fitting metallic mesh and fine fabric gowns from the 2023 Spring Haute Couture show reflect subdued versions of Bakers on stage style. Isidore Montag/Gorunway.com
Baker still performed in the 60’s and 70’s and her legacy lives on to this day. Especially in France where she was the first black woman to be honoured in the secular temple to the “great men” of the French Republic. In May 2021 a petition was started to rebury Baker at the Pantheon and President Macaron agreed to this. Her body stayed at rest in Monaco but a symbolic casket was interred at the Pantheon.
Baker on stage, c. 1970. David Redfern / Redferns
Baker in a beaded evening gown, c. 1970. Michael Ochs Archives Getty Images
Baker performing in 1973. Michel Ginfray Getty Images
One of Bakers final photos, 1975. Michel Ginfray Getty Images
Form fitting metallic dresses reflect more of Baker's on stage style through the 1950's to 1970's. Isidore Montag/Gorunway.com
Josephine Baker is known for her iconic and daring style, which blended traditional African elements with the contemporary French fashion of the time. Her clothing was often inspired by the traditional dress of African tribes, and she was the first to bring the exotic beauty of African fashion to the forefront of the stage. She is also remembered for her signature feather headdress and banana skirt, which were two of her most iconic fashion statements. Josephine Baker's style was truly revolutionary and a true representation of her spirit and personality.
As you can see Josephine Baker was as important to French history as she was to American history. Perhaps for this reason Maria Grazia Chiuri chose her as the inspiration for the Dior Spring 2023 Couture Show among other iconic black and bi-racial American woman. We've seen how special homage was payed to the military silhouettes of the time, now let’s take a look a few more garments from the Dior Spring 2023 Haute Couture Show.
Reflecting off duty military wear and everyday clothing of the 20's and 30's Chiuri uses pleats in wonderful ways which add volume to these otherwise straight and neutral garments. Isidore Montag/Gorunway.com
Josephine Baker in Paris - Circa 1930. Source Unknown.
Probably my favourite reference of all was multiple interpretations of the robe, almost presented as a smoking jacket for this collection. I can definitely picture Baker in between shows using a dressing robe with the same glamour and effortlessness. Isidore Montag/Gorunway.com
Baker with her cheetah Chiquita who she would commonly bring on stage during performances, c. 1930. Source Unknown.