Balmain Pre-Fall 2023

A love letter to the brands history and legacy.

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Photo courtesy of Balmain

Olivier Rousteing has once again produced an expansive collection that serves as a love letter to not only his own history at the house of Balmain, but also to those who have come before him. Entering his twelfth year as creative director for the house, Rousteing has already created memorable silhouettes, toting structural features and luxurious finishings and trimmings. The 2023 Pre-Fall collection reflects Rousteing's love for drama, a military jacket reference, crystals and elegant garments with structured elements.

Balmain Pre-Fall 2023: Crystal embellished frog closure garments reminiscent of 1970's silhouettes and military style jackets. Photos courtesy of Balmain

Rousteing for Balmain Fall 2016 Menswear Photo: Monica Feudi / Indigitalimages.com

Other than his famous military jacket, Rousteing also created structured silhouettes which represent both a nod to his own fantastical couture creations and those of Pierre Balmain, the brands founder. He created beautiful bow-like structural elements in the 2019 Couture collection and Pierre was well known for his innovations and usage of bows early on in his career.

Balmain Pre-Fall 2023: Classic silhouettes highlighted with structural bows which draw attention to different aspects of each garment. Photos courtesy of Balmain

Rousteing for Balmain Spring 2019 Couture Photo: Filippo Fior / Gorunway.com

The "Black Tie" dress 1960 Spring Collection, Photo: Alfredo de Molli

Balmain bow coat c.1970's. Photo source: Keystone/Getty Images

Another staple explored by Rousteing in this collection are coats. Pierre Balmain showcased his unique design style through short and long coats by adding structural elements like padded shoulders which continue to be staples of the brand to this day.

Balmain Pre-Fall 2023: Rousteing's rendition of the short cutaway coat. Photos courtesy of Balmain

Balmain cutaway coat by Pierre Balmain drawn by Eric, Vogue, Aril 1, 1946

Balmain Pre-Fall 2023: Rousteing's classic rendition of the long coat. Photos courtesy of Balmain

Bronwen Pugh, in Balmain, 26 Aug 1958, Paris Photo: Bettmann/CORBIS

Full length coat by Pierre Balmain Photographed by Clifford Coffin, Vogue, December 15, 1946

Two more tasteful references made by Rousteing include beautiful crystal and beaded embellishment as well as foulard dressing (the use of these lightweight fabric scarves/neckerchief as garments).

Balmain Pre-Fall 2023: Rousteing's use of gems and crystals creates lines of interest on each garment. Photos courtesy of Balmain

Josephine Baker in dress by Pierre Balmain, 1951.AP Photo

Marie-Thérèse, and Pierre Balmain, 1960. Source: Wikipedia Commons

Crystal and feather embellished evening dress, by Pierre Balmain, 1950 – 55, France. Victoria and Albert Museum, London; Sketch from the Pierre Balmain SS 1951 Haute Couture collection. Patrimoine Balmain

Balmain Pre-Fall 2023: Foulard inspired outfits. Photos courtesy of Balmain

Velvet Evening Gown with foulard inspired Poncho by Pierre Balmain, 1977. Keystone Press / Alamy Stock Photo

Although Rousteing's slip-cover's are much more glamorous, the one below may have been a source of inspiration for the designs.

Model wearing full Balmain, ca. 1955. Condé Nast Archive/CORBIS

Stay tuned for more posts about Balmain and other iconic brands!